Leaving Nicosia for the day, we drove an hour to the foothills of the Troodos mountains, the largest mountain range in Cyprus, crowned by Mount Olympus (although unfortunately not the mythological one). Our first stop was at the church of St. Nicholas of the Roof. This is a Byzanatine church with impeccable preserved frescoes inside, with the earliest dating back to the 11th century. They have lasted so long due to the method of “nopographia,” or fresh painting. They painted small sections while the wall was still damp, so the paint penetrated the plaster. This prevents it from cracking and peeling off, which is why they are so remarkably preserved today. Another interesting fact relates to the name of the church- St. Nicholas of the Roof. This is because the church actually has two roofs, with a second being added above the original dome. They did this because the snow in the Troodos mountains damaged the frescoes, so a second roof was added for protection. Eventually, they entirely gave up on building churches with domes, realizing it made more sense to use a snow-proof design to begin with.
Our second stop was in the village of Kakopetria. Situated in a valley on a stream, the views are stunning: the red-tiled roofs dot the hills. The area is known for fruit production, such as pomegranate, lemons, and olives, the candied versions of which we tried with lunch. Much of the village has been restored to the way it would have been historically, with narrow cobbled walking streets. The buildings’ lower levels are made of river rock and the volcanic rock of the area, while the upper levels are made of mud bricks. Wood is used for fixtures like doorways and windows. Clearly, the residents of Kakopetria have embraced nature, with green vines and shrubs lining walls and providing shade. Beautiful flowers are also on display, with vibrant shades of red, pink, and purple. All throughout the area, there are many aromatic herbs and fruits, such as bay leaf, prickly pear, and citrus varieties. Bamboo shoots which are used as roofing grow freely. The stream which cuts through the village is serene, and fresh water from the mountains can be drank at taps along the streets. Lastly, the many adorable cats of all colors which roam the village are a sight sure to please. Kakopetria is a must-see and the cooler temperatures of the Troodos are a welcome break from the sun.
