Today’s focus shifted from the overload of the Medinas and markets to the invisible threads that hold Moroccan society together. We took a deep dive into the pillars of Moroccan life: religion, politics, and the evolving role of women. Being here in Rabat, the capital city where tradition and rapid modernization intersect on every street corner, offers the perfect vantage point to observe these forces in action.

Morocco is primarily a Muslim Country, which is prevalent with the call to prayer times throughout the day, and even in my host home, the scriptures of the Quran around the home. There are various Mosques, which I see along my daily walks, emphasizing the importance of not only their religion, but people’s devotion towards it. The adhan or call to prayer echoes from the minarets five times a day. I’d see men praying in small rooms when I roam past certain areas of the Medina, and, interestingly, I have yet to see a woman pray in the same manner. Even in my host home, I am staying with three women, and I have yet to see anyone pray or devote themselves heavily to their religion.

When it comes to politics, I think it’s fascinating that walking into almost any shop, cafe, or institution in Rabat, you will see a portrait of King Mohammed VI. I even saw him walking out of customs at the airport and again in the mosque in Casablanca. It’s a constant reminder that Morocco is a constitutional monarchy where the King holds immense political and spiritual authority. Back home in the States, a practice like this is not really common at all. If anything, it showcases this nation’s fierce protection of tradition and stability, especially in a region that has seen so much upheaval- culturally, politically, and socially.

Now, most importantly, let’s talk about the role of Women. I came to Morocco with similar western stereotypes as my peers about Muslim women, and Rabat dismantled them within minutes. The visual diversity alone is striking; you will see women in traditional, floor-length djellabas and headscarves walking arm-in-arm with friends in jeans and leather jackets. I assumed that every woman would be dressed modestly for the most part, but now I think I am dressed more modestly than some locals here themselves. But beyond fashion, a nice change is that now, women are consistently visible in public life. In 2004, Morocco passed sweeping reforms to the Moudawana (the family code), granting women significantly more rights regarding marriage, divorce, and child custody. While laws on paper don’t always instantly change deeply rooted patriarchal norms, especially in rural areas, in a city like Rabat, you see the impact. Women are attending universities in droves, running businesses, serving in parliament, and unapologetically occupying spaces, like street-side cafes, beaches, and Medinas, that were historically male-dominated. Even in my host home, no man is living here. Staying in a female-dominated household, even from the past few days, has shown me just how much has changed, and for the better. There are no traditional roles, or breadwinners, or anything in the house where I reside in. Rather, the two older women work different but equally important jobs- one stays at home and manages the household, my host mother, who cooks for the family and makes sure everything is running. Her youngest daughter, my host sister, goes to work every day and works, what I assume, are late hours as she works hard to provide for her daughter and mother. Just from staying here, I see the strong female influences and the independent lifestyles they have lived, which is different than most traditional families here in Morocco.

If I had to choose the single most impactful thing I’ve observed, it is the navigation of the public space by Moroccan women. The gradual progress for women is amazing, as I didn’t expect to see so many young women walking alone out and about. And I was able to do the same to get to the CCCL and back! Women in this society have fought long and hard to no longer be considered minors in society, and it shows in everyday life, even if it’s subtle. It comes in forms of a woman walking alone, a new outfit, or even a modern standard of living. I hope to keep seeing this change in society, especially for women, as they progress, and people can unlearn the patriarchal system that is so deeply assimilated in the root of the culture for some. At the same time, these women are proving that modernization does not have to mean Westernization. Progress isn’t a straight line, but rather a complex, ongoing negotiation between the past and the future, and Moroccan women are leading that charge with incredible grace and resilience.

My day wrapped up with a visit to the beach after class with my friends! We may have wandered the markets again before actually going to the beach, but it’s all good fun, plus, we got to explore new areas of the Medina we hadn’t seen before. I didn’t expect for the weather in Morocco to be so perfect, especially at a beach side in Rabat. I had a lot of fun swimming in the ocean and being able to relax in the sun and unwind from the day.

Today was an immersive day, diving into Morocco’s culture, changes, and ocean! Tomorrow brings another exciting day in Rabat! I’m eager to learn more about what this city offers and explore more of it!