Day 6- A Trip Back in Time

Today was arguably one of the most interesting days of the trip, where we made the road trip along the eastern coast of the island to visit Varosi (the ghost town) and Famagusta (the medieval city). In order to enter the city of Varosi, we first needed to enter the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus through the eastern-most entry point on the island. As Turkish occupation of the northern part of the island is a complex and sensitive topic within Cyprus, we were briefed by Dimitria and Smaragda with a lot of informative history about the city and the political events that transpired in 1974 before we entered. Prior to 1974, Varosi was the modern tourist area of Famagusta, but after the Turkish Invasion, the city was taken under Turkish control. The area is now referred to as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, but no one aside from the Turkish actually accept it as a legal state. In 1984, Varosi was placed under control of the UN which forbade anyone other than those who were forced out in the 1970s from settling there. Thus, with every home and business being looted by the Turks, the city of Varosi became an uninhabitable ghost town. However, the Turks are now beginning to defy this order and turn it back into a tourist destination.

An abandoned building in the ghost town.

When we arrived at the checkpoint to cross into the TRNC, we were required to show our passports and were also met by an escort who was required to accompany us throughout our entire visit. Walking through the streets of the town was a solemn experience and also paradoxical. We could clearly see all the abandoned houses and storefronts, many of which were beginning to crumble to the ground. Physically walking through the city and seeing the destruction up close helped me better understand the true terror and sadness experienced by the tens of thousands of people who were forced to flee their homes with essentially nothing. Many of the buildings have remained untouched, but the streets have been well-maintained and you can begin to see the reinstitution of vacation activities. It felt very paradoxical because if you looked one direction you had a spectacular view of the water with a well-maintained beach area, but if you turned your head a different direction, you could see the city in ruins.

A view of the beach that has started to undergo renovation.
One of the many abandoned storefronts.

We then visited the Walled City of Famagusta or “The Medieval City.” The city is still surrounded by city walls which encompass gothic era churches and the ruins of the Medieval Castle. Walking around the city made me feel like I had traveled back in time to the Middle Ages. We noticed many stray dogs throughout the city and were informed that unlike on the Greek side of Cyprus where there are many requirements for keeping a dog, strays are welcome on the Turkish side. My favorite features of the city were the Tomb of Venus and the church of St. Nicholas. The church was very beautiful and we even heard a prayer recitation while we were enjoying lunch.

Remains of the Medieval Castle.
The Church of St. Nicholas.
The Tomb of Venus.
Delicacies from one of the pastry shops we found!

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