We went to the Northern Turkish side of Cyprus today. We had to pass through the UN safe zone and Turkish checkpoints. There was a security official that had to accompany our group the entire time we were there. It was really interesting to learn more about the Turkish invasion in 1974 and see the results in person. There is a vast difference between learning history in a classroom and witnessing the direct impacts. As we drove into the Turkish side, first going to Varosi (Varosha), we passed strict zones where photography was prohibited. Varosi is the abandoned city in Famagusta. Varosi is the part of Famagusta that was once Cyprus’ most popular tourist location in the 1960s, before the Turkish invasion. It was really surreal to see abandoned high rise hotels, cafes, and shops. I felt like I could paint a picture of what it was like in its heyday and it really emphasized the dramatic effects of the Turkish invasion, which our tour guide emphasized as well. She told us a story of a colleague of hers whose wedding day was on the day of the invasion and did a great job of connecting textbook history with real people’s lives.
After we went to Varosi, we went to the walled city in Famagusta. This city was a direct reflection of just how old Cyprus is, and how many cultures and conquerors have travelled through it. We saw the remains of a Venetian palace. Only the walls and columns still stand but you could interpret the beauty that it must have once been through the decorative details. We also saw the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, or the St. Nicholas Cathedral. Built in the 13th century, it was first built as a Cathedral and then converted into a mosque when the Ottomans invaded Cyprus. Our tour guide told us about the Lusignans who were crowned kings at two churches in cyprus, one of them being this cathedral. Our trip to Famagusta reminded me just how old Cyprus is, especially compared to the history of the United States.
We also had a meze lunch in Famagusta. Not really knowing what we were getting ourselves into, we walked into a restaurant and the food just kept coming out! I’m not complaining, it was the most delicious array of sauces, meats, and other Cypriot cuisine.
Our tour guides and program coordinators, Dimitra and Smaragda, have been great on this trip. Dimitra offers a seemingly never ending supply of information about Cyprus history. I have particularly enjoyed her knowledge of the plants in Cyprus. We learned that Cyprus has around 140 endemic species! Our coordinator, Smaragda is well verse in the linguistic history of Cyprus. It was really interesting to learn that local Cyrpriots to not speak Greek, they actually speak Cypriot. Cypriot is currently a dialect of Greek, however mainland Greeks cannot understand Cypriot. Cypriots are taught Greek in school but do not speak it casually with their friends and family. Smarangda informed me about the nuances there are to this dialect and the connotations and stereotypes that some people associate with Cypriot.
We got to end the day at Fig Tree Bay, a beautiful beach. The water was incredibly clear, the pictures I took don’t do it justice. Overall, it was a great day of learning and experiencing history!
