Plus3 South Korea 07-08: Golgulsa Temple Stay

On Saturday, we boarded a KTX bullet train from Seoul Station to Gyeongju. While we were at the station, we got Dunkin’ Wonders, a Dunkin’ Donuts collab restaurant in Korea, which is surprisingly a lot different from the US, with an almost completely different menu featuring some very unusual flavors, so trying them was fun.

I have never been on a bullet train before, so it was a unique experience as it was incredibly smooth even though we were traveling at approximately 180 mph. This is very different from trains in the States, which are capped at 110 mph. The journey was also very short, only two hours, even more surprising when you consider that we traveled almost as far as you can go, spanning the entire country. To be fair, all of South Korea is a bit smaller than the state of Pennsylvania, which is also shocking to me, as South Korea’s population is nearly 5 times that of Pennsylvania at 51.49 million.

After getting a bite to eat, we boarded a charter bus and headed to Golgulsa Temple, where we were staying for the night. On arrival, we quickly checked in and watched a Seonmudo performance, an ancient Korean martial art now practiced only at this temple. It was exciting to watch the monks perform, and it felt really special to be there, especially since it is unlikely that we will ever see other Seonmudo practitioners.

After the performance concluded, we changed into our uniform, an orange traditional vest and brown baggy pants, and went to their practice hall. We had an introductory meeting that covered everything from the temple stay activities to the general rules and how to be respectful during the stay, such as being completely silent during meals and bowing out of respect to the monks.

Then we were given our first lesson in the art of Seonmudo, which consisted of a lot of stretching and general strength exercises to warm up, followed by a few basic kicks and a basic form. Afterward, we were given the option to do the 108 prostrations, a series of 108 full bows to signify relieving sources of suffering and gratitude. I partook, and I must say it was definitely tiring, at the very least. Overall, it was a great exercise, and I felt very relaxed and refreshed afterward.

We then went to dinner, which was vegan as all of the monks at the temple are Buddhist and believe in the preciousness of all living things, though it’s not something I see myself personally adopting. The food was very good and offered insight into traditional vegan Korean food.

When we wrapped up eating, we were told we were going to see another performance. It was filled with yoga, Seonmudo, traditional dancing, and music, offering a lot of perspective on a part of Korean culture we hadn’t yet experienced.

The next morning, a small number of us woke up early at 5:00 am to experience the various morning meditations held every day at the temple. We did a sitting meditation and a walking meditation, which combined lasted for about 2 and a half hours before we got breakfast. In total, it was a very peaceful experience, and I really enjoyed just taking in the sounds of nature.

In the afternoon, we received another Seonmudo lesson, had tea, and learned about Buddhism and the temple’s history from the head monk, who has been a monk for over 60 years. It was a great experience, and I felt like I learned so much about Korean culture and Buddhism.

Overall, the whole stay was an unforgettable part of the trip and something I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

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